It’s easy to buy your herbs dried and bottled, but watch Jamie Oliver at work in the kitchen and he’s bound to say that they’re nothing like the fresh stuff, and he’s probably right. The good news is, fresh herbs are abundant and easily available at any wet, hyper-, and supermarket.
BY ELINA KAMARUZZAMAN

What’s fascinating about Malaysian herbs or ulam as they are known, is that they are so versatile. They do a great job of enhancing the flavors and aromas of any dish, and add to the complexity of textures, tastes and colors of a salad. But of course, try not to mix your ulam raja with romaine lettuce and olive oil. It just won’t taste right (believe me, I’ve tried).

There are a handful that would go with various types of lettuce though, like bunga kantan and serai (lemongrass). Best eaten raw, ulam has to be folded in your hands, then dipped into sambal belacan (prawn paste) and then tucked in with a little bit of rice, giving you nutrients, fiber and carbohydrates all in one neat little package.

Most of these herbs often grow wild in our tropical climate. In fact, they were formerly known as poor folk’s food because they were easily available for next to nothing yet rich in nutrients. How things have changed! Still, my mum never fails to tell me the same old story every time ulam is served at home. When she was growing up, her diet often comprised of rice flavored with herbs, prawn paste and dried, salted fish.